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The Brews Brothers
With a passion for preservation, the McMenamins have brewed an eclectic
empire.
By Patricia Filip
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Mike and Brian McMenamin
(left to right) at the White Eagle, a North Portland landmark acquired
by McMenamins in 1998. |
The three artists and the historian on staff are a dead
give away. McMenamins is not your typical pub chain. And the jean clad,
down-home McMenamin brothers are not your run-of-the-mill corporate
executives.
The enterprising OSU alumni, Brian and Mike McMenamin, oversee a mushrooming
chain of 50 establishments brew pubs, theater pubs, lodging and
conference facilities, and destination resorts.
What really sets the McMenamins apart, however, is their knack for seeing
beyond hops and malt, stout and ale. Beyond the abandoned poor farm,
the boarded-up grade school, the 19th century farmstead and the faded
dowager of a ballroom in downtown Portland.
With a keen interest in history and a passion for preservation, they
have poured millions of dollars into resurrecting and renovating historic
properties. In the process, they are revitalizing sleepy small towns
and aging neighborhoods.
Take Edgefield, for example.
Troutdale Mayor Paul Thalofer recalls back to 1990, when Multnomah County
wanted to raze the old Edgefield Center nursing home to make way for
perhaps a big-box retail development or a county jail. Edgefield was
originally built as a county poor farm in 1911 and during the Depression
housed more than 600 indigent residents. It later became a county nursing
home. After being abandoned in 1982, youth gangs and vagrants haunted
its darkened halls.
The Troutdale Historical Society fought the county and city of Troutdale
for five years to prevent the demolition. Thalofer said the Troutdale
City Council finally gave Edgefield a years reprieve and
the McMenamins stepped in. As Thalofer said, "they turned a sows
ear into a silk purse."
McMenamins bought the buildings and initial acreage for $500,000 and
with the infusion of millions of dollars of additional capital turned
the property into a destination resort that now includes 38 acres, restaurants,
brew pub, winery, theater, bed and breakfast rooms, conference center,
distillery and golf course.
"Its become the crown jewel of east Multnomah County and
certainly Troutdale," said Thalofer. "We really owe the McMenamins
a large debt of gratitude for coming to the rescue. Troutdales
doing really well, and McMenamins played a big part in the revival of
Troutdale business."
When Mike and Brian attended OSU, they certainly didnt have this
kind of empire-building in their career plans. Mike, who played football
his freshman year, graduated in 1974 with a degree in political science.
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The renovation of
the Old Oregon Hotel has had spurred development in downtown McMinnville. |
"Looking back I should have
taken totally different things," he said. "I was not smart
enough to figure out what I actually liked. Now its art, design,
history and architecture."
Brian, too, majored in political science, graduating in 1980. His interests
are more business oriented: "legal, administrative, human resources,
all the things that come with managing people."
Although Mike had many odd jobs growing up, he landed the first job
he liked and got the "restaurant bug" at Togos sandwich
shop on Monroe Street in Corvallis.
After graduation, while working at a produce warehouse in Southeast
Portland, Mike spotted a cafe for sale across the street. He and two
friends bought it, added beer and served Togos-type food.
They later sold what had become Produce Row Cafe. Other ventures followed,
including a failed attempt at running a beer distributorship. Then in
1983, Mike and Brian launched the Barley Mill Pub in Southeast Portland,
the first of the McMenamins chain of establishments. In 1985, they opened
the first brew pub in Oregon since prohibition at the Hillsdale Brewery
and Public House.
Two years later, they converted a former 1890s Swedish Tabernacle in
Northwest Portland into Portlands first theater-pub, the Mission
Theater and Pub. They went on to save the art deco Bagdad Theater in
Southeast Portland from the wrecking ball, renovating it into another
theater-pub by removing every other row of seats and installing tables.
"Everyone was surprised I think that we could serve beer at a movie
theater," said Brian. "I look at it the other way, the other
side of the coin. That is we have a pub showing movies."
In 1986, the McMenamins leased a pioneer farmhouse in Hillsboro, which
had housed six generations of the Imbrie family, and opened the Cornelius
Pass Roadhouse. The farmstead included some of the states oldest
standing farm buildings (a granary dating to 1855, the farmhouse constructed
in 1866, and a rare, octagonal barn built in 1913). When developers
proposed to tear down the octagonal barn and some of the farm buildings
to build an Execulodge motel, preservationists crawled out of the woodwork
to block the project. The McMenamins came forward and purchased the
lease.
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The stairway leading
to the upstairs guest rooms of the White Eagle saloon. |
Now the Imbrie farmstead sits like an oasis amid
burgeoning new development in the Sunset corridor.
Instead of being razed to make way for a motel, the barn and granary
have been turned into meeting rooms and the milking shed into a small
pub. Generations-old orchards remain as does an old grapevine that produces
grapes added to the brews. Imbrie Hall, the newest addition to the property,
includes materials salvaged from old buildings including rafters from
Portlands Blitz-Weinhard brewery.
And then there is Portlands legendary Crystal Ballroom. As Mike
said, "Its one of the greatest spaces on the planet."
The ballrooms famous floating dance floor, suspended by rocker
arms and bearings, is purportedly one of three built in the country
and the only one still intact. Perhaps more memorable than the bouncing
floor and ornate plaster trim are the personalities, music and dancing
that had filled the space over the decades.
Built in 1913, it was first operated by Montrose Ringler as the Cotillian
Hall and then used over the years for Dad Watsons old time dance
revivals, Gypsy ceremonies, and soul music concerts by celebrated performers
James Brown, Marvin Gaye, and Ike and Tina Turner. In 1967 it achieved
legendary local notoriety as "Portlands psychedelic palace,"
hosting light shows and big-name rock bands.
In 1968, the City of Portland forced closure of the Crystal Ballroom,
prompted by concerns about building code deficiencies as well as the
ballrooms reputation as a hippie enclave.
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The Rock Creek Tavern features a
turn of the century bar. |
For nearly 30 years, the floating floor was still
and the space silent. Then in 1995, the McMenamins rescued it, spending
what Brian estimates at between $3 and $4 million to restore it.
"The problem is you go in there and get a bid to do the project,
but then when you get into it there are always surprises," he said.
"The building required a massive amount of work new plumbing,
electrical, seismic upgrade, new roof."
Mike admits that with its capacity for more than 1,000 people, keeping
the Crystal Ballroom full is a challenge. "Thats as big a
challenge as well have," he said. "But its a worthy
opponent."
Another hefty challenge for the McMenamins was the Kennedy School. At
a time when many businesses were leaving inner-city America, the McMenamins
boldly decided to transform a boarded-up elementary school in Northeast
Portland into an entertainment, bed and breakfast, and conference facility.
The Italian villa styled school opened in 1915 and was abandoned by
the Portland School District in 1980. For the next 15 years, the Kennedy
Schools alumni and neighbors fought to prevent the schools
demolition. The city of Portland took possession of the property and
then sold it to the McMenamins for its assessed value, allowing them
to pay off the debt over 15 years by allowing community use of the facilities,
such as meeting spaces, gym, soaking pool and community garden.
"Integrating the community into what were trying to do in
that particular instance worked great. The neighborhood is a real strong
supporter of the project," Brian said.
"It really works because people come here and use this facility,"
Mike said. "It became a community center. Its pretty powerful."
From classrooms, the McMenamins have carved 35 hotel rooms, complete
with original chalkboards and cloak closets. The former pink tiled girls
restroom has been transformed into the brewery, the gymnasium into a
movie theater, and another room into the "Detention Bar."
Though the building has been preserved, its current use might not have
passed muster with the schools first principal, Mina Parsons,
who was a champion of womens rights as well as the temperance
movement.
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Top: The Rock Creek Tavern in Hillsboro stands on the site of
a stage stop on the old overland route from Portland to the coast.
Left: Ceramic art decorates the grounds of the McMenamins Grand
Lodge in Forest Grove.
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The Grand Lodge
auditorium has hosted events ranging from Christmas pageants to
Maypole dances. |
The same vision that prompted the McMenamins to
find new uses for an old school drew them to McMinnville, where they
joined with the Old Oregon Hotel Partnership to renovate the Old Oregon
Hotel.
The four-story hotel, built in 1905, is the tallest commercial building
in Yamhill County. When Mike and Brian first stood on the roof of the
old hotel, they were dazzled by the panoramic view. Although they already
had decided to restore the faded building, the view convinced them to
install a rooftop bar.
"On a sunny day you cant believe the view," said Mike.
"You can see all the way over McMinnville ... rolling hills, vineyards,
church steeples. Its really beautiful."
Brian said the hotel required a total renovation. The upper three floors
of the hotel had been vacant for decades. The fourth floor in fact had
never been finished.
Jeb Bladine, publisher of the McMinnville News-Register, said the McMenamins
put into service a great old building and solidified downtown McMinnvilles
place as a real destination spot.
"This kind of commitment sparks confidence, has a positive economic
impact and takes the downtown to another level as a full-service area,"
he said. "Their competitors have done progressively better, and
visitors come downtown because McMenamins has a name."
Patti Webb, McMinnville Downtown Association manager, said that the
hotel inspired the renovation of another hotel across the street. She
said that McMenamins have been a big player in downtown promotions,
sponsoring concerts and other events.
North of McMinnville in Forest Grove, sits the McMenamins newest
large-scale project the sprawling Grand Lodge. The lodge, a former
Masonic and Eastern Star retirement home and grand lodge, opened in
2000. The 13-acre pastoral site includes bed and breakfast rooms, multiple
pubs, a brewery, meeting rooms, theater and outdoor gardens.
Ray Giansante, manager of the Forest Grove Chamber of Commerce, said
McMenamins draws more visitors to town.
He recalls his role in luring McMenamins to Forest Grove. Several years
ago, while he and the mayor were driving by the retirement home on their
way to a meeting, the mayor said, "You know thats for sale."
At that time a local supermarket wanted to buy it, tear it down and
build a strip mall.
"It just popped into my mind," Giansante said, "thats
the Edgefield on this side of Portland." He put in a call to the
McMenamins asking them to take a look at the building.
Mike McMenamin hopped in his Blazer, headed west for a look, but couldnt
find the building at first. When he finally happened upon it, he was
left in a complete state of disbelief.
"This couldnt be it!" he wrote in the company newsletter.
"It was one of the biggest surprises in our companys 25-year
history."
"Its always an adventure when a new potential project rears
its head," he said. "You never know what youll find
or what mysterious forces might take control of your sense and shake
you like a puppet. The lightening can strike at any time. It could be
something that you drive by on the way to see something else ... And
when a building begins to have a conversation with you, its only
a matter of time."
Part of having the conversation involves listening to the buildings
history. That is accomplished with the help of staff historian Tim Hills.
"He dives into the history of the place and then meets with artists
and translates history into words for artists and then they can start
putting together what they want to do art-wise," said Brian. "Art
tells the story of the area and the people who live there and bring
it to life."
McMenamins has three artists on staff and has commissioned scores of
others to create artwork. At the Grand Lodge, for example, artists have
painted former retirement home residents, orphans who co-inhabited the
home during its early years, Latino residents of Forest Grove and fur
trappers who first settled the area.
Although the McMenamins started out buying older buildings because they
were less expensive, theyre now drawn to them because of their
rich history.
"Older buildings invite the public into the buildings," said
Brian. "Our early successes allowed us to pursue our dream of getting
the older buildings up and running."
"From a penciling-out standpoint, they just dont make sense,"
said Mike. "Thats why a lot of them languish. From an economic
standpoint, theyre hard to make work. If you can kind of close
your eyes to that, which were prone to do, it comes down to the
long-term sort of thing. What you get out of it is way more than the
monetary rewards.
"When youre young youre more interested in trying to
make money. After a while, you figure out whats real."
Ed Lawrence, manager of the Crystal Ballroom, agrees that the McMenamins
have a talent for finding special properties. Lawrence, a 1968 graduate
of OSU, recalls that there were about 100 employees when he began working
for McMenamins 12 years ago. Like most other McMenamins managers, he
began his career serving beer. Now the company estimates the number
of full and part-time employees at about 1,500.
With that many employees and an empire stretching from north of Seattle
to Roseburg, one would think the McMenamins might be tempted to hunker
down. Brian and Mike admit that with more work to be done on existing
sites, they may be slowing a bit in acquiring new properties.
But then again, they say that theyre looking into a project in
Bend a Catholic grade school, which would be developed somewhat
like the Kennedy School.
"We want to do more up in Washington, too," said Brian. "We
just havent had time."
As for any talk of retirement, Mike scoffs. "I dont know
why I should. I work with fantastic people. I do the stuff I love to
do. Theres music, theres art, theres history. There
are old buildings, gardens and golf. Thats all pretty fun stuff
in my book."
And, he adds, "You always have to have something youre chasing."
| OSU trains future brewers, winemakers |
For students interested in a career in winemaking or brewing, OSU offers
a fermentation science option as part of its food science and technololgy
degree program.
The fermentation science option was added to the curriculum five years
ago to meet the needs of industry in the state, said Mark Daeschel, NorWester
professor of fermentation science.
"Oregon has a firm agricultural base to support enology and brewing
industries, and thats part of the reason why they have taken off,"
he said
He said the fermentation program provides students with the science and
technical background to enable them to work successfully in the profession.
The program also includes research and Extension components.
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